Q:Thank you so much for your answer though it reminded me of another questions. Haha sorry, but generally when I take long exposure shots they turn out yellowish, though the white balance looks fine when taking shots with a quicker shutter speed. Any tips?
No problem, keep ‘em coming ;) We’ve had similar issues and the reason this is happening (assuming you’re using auto white balance) is because your camera is doing it’s best to determine the white balance for a scene. Most often this is inaccurate and requires adjustment later. We almost always adjust our white balance in post.
As for the shutter speed affecting this, the only thing we can think of that would cause this is the simple fact that a quicker shutter speed exposes less light in a scene. This only allows enough time to pull light from the strongest point leaving little room for exposure of light from surrounding areas. This would explain the lack of color contamination. A longer shutter speed allows the camera to pull not only the strongest light source, but all the surrounding residual light creating a cacophony of color contamination. This is especially true at Disneyland. The only time this wouldn’t be an issue is if everything in a scene is the exact same white balance, which is unlikely.
A couple of solutions: manually set your white balance so you have greater control over the color. As much as this helps, you may still be in a situation where you have multiple white balances fighting each other. For example, Route 66 in Cars Land with its warm street lights and rainbow of neon colors. You’ll need to set your white balance for one light source and fix the other in post. Which leads me to the other solution, set it to auto and fix it in post. Just make sure to register a clear mental image of what the scene looks like in person so you feel confident fixing it later.
Q:I wanted to thank you guys for the advice on buying a DSLR I ended up going with the D3200 and using the money I saved towards buying lenses and a quality tripod. So now I have another question. What lenses do you recommend buying for HDR pictures and just pictures in general. I really want to be able to take night shots that aren't very grainy or blurry. Lots of people are telling me to buy a 50 mm lens but i was hoping to get you advice on this. Please and thank you.
You’re welcome, glad we could help! To take clean photos at night you’ll want to acquire a tripod first so you can have your ISO a low as possible. HDR photography has a tendency to exaggerate noise and even the best lens won’t be able to work around this necessity. As for a lens, we have a 50mm f/1.8 G; great color and sharpness. It has been a staple lens. When it comes to choosing other lenses, it really depends on your style of shooting and your preference. We mainly shoot landscapes, so our next lens acquirement was a 10-20mm Sigma. We’ve been very pleased with the color and clarity.
Q:Hey guys, so I have a couple of questions. First, how are you able to take pics at Disneyland with no people? Second, do you mind if I use your images as a Facebook cover? By the way, your photos are amazing.
This is a question we get asked a lot. We manage to get photos without people in them by simply using a great deal of patience. We’ve been known to wait up to an hour to get a photo without people in it. Usually our tolerance lasts for about 30 minutes, it really depends on how much we want it. As for your second question, you are welcome to use any of our images as a cover photo for Facebook. We only ask that you give credit to the photographer and include a link to our website in the photo description.
Q:I wanted to tell you guys how much I enjoy your blog. I think your photographs are amazing. They are gorgeous and capture the spirit of the park beautifully. How long do you spend editing photos? I work with Photoshop frequently and you guys have skill in editing photos. Are there filters or techniques you like to use?
Thank you! We spend roughly a couple of hours on a photo. We use a number of different filters from the Topaz plugin suite and, as for techniques, mainly layers and masking. We actually just came out with a couple of HDR Tutorials. A free version, which is a basic ‘how to’ and will take you through Photomatix Pro, and our full guide which will take you through our entire process from Lightroom to Photomatix Pro and finally, Photoshop. We also include some of our early work that’s never been seen to show some mistakes with HDR and how to avoid them. Check them out here
Q:First of all your work is amazing! I will be in DL next month and am looking forward to trying my hand at HDR. How do you determine what your ISO, Shutter and F-stop settings are going to be? Do you use the TTL Meter? Thanks, I find your work just amazing!
Thank you! ISO, shutter and f-stop all depend primarily on lighting conditions and whether or not you’re using a tripod. Without one, you definitely need a quick enough shutter speed to hand hold without blurring any of your images. For most shots, f-stop is the primary deciding factor because it gives you your depth of field, or lack thereof. From there we try to keep the ISO as low as possible because the HDR process can enhance noise quite a bit. If we want to imply movement in a picture or freeze it, then shutter speed takes priority. We do use the camera’s metering, but occasionally disregard it if it’s not giving us the exposure we want. We have our cameras set to Matrix Metering most of the time, which tries to give you the best exposure for everything you see in your viewfinder. Most of the time, that works very well.